The Skins first line of defence

“The skin barrier is essential for overall health and needs to be protected for your body to function correctly.”

The Skins first line of defence.

Your first step to addressing any skin concerns is to ensure the barrier function of the skin is not impaired. The barrier function is simply your skins first line of defence it has two main functions keeping water and oil in keeping pathogens out!

The barrier function of the skin does not become impaired overnight it breaks down over time. Healthy skin is balanced skin with a happy barrier function one that is hydrated with a dewy glowing complexion. A normal skin is often referred to as a balanced skin as it produces the optimum amount of sebum; the skin is neither too oily nor too dry. It functions perfectly and can hold in the moisture necessary to keep it soft and supple. Unfortunately, this skin type is quite rare in adults and the balance of the skin usually alters at puberty.

What is barrier function?

The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum, it is our bodies first line of defence consisting of 15 to 25 rows of flat, dead cells filled with keratin. Lipids (fats) surrounding the cells help to give suppleness to this barrier, which gives protection against light and heat, bacteria, and chemicals. The fatty substance is known as the natural moisturising factor.

The Stratum corneum is also involved in the regulation of water loss into the atmosphere this is known as Trans epidermal water loss. The stratum corneum represents a brick wall, the flattened, dead cells are the bricks. The mortar between these cells is the lipids, consisting of cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides.

These cells continuously flake off the surface this is called desquamation. These desquamated cells are dried out with a moisture content of only 6% - 9% and mix with the acid mantle to complete the protective function of the skin.

What is the acid mantle?

The acid mantle is a hydrophilic film which is acidic it has a PH of 4.5 to 5.5. it is made up of sebum secreted from your sebaceous gland within the hair follicle, sweat from the pores, amino acids, lactic acid, and fatty acids. The acid mantle protects against trans epidermal water loss and external aggressors. This is the cap to the stratum corneum. A disturbed acid mantle will allow bacteria to thrive disrupting the skins microbiome.

What is the microbiome?

The microbiome is an eco-system of bacteria on the skins surface. It protects against pathogens. If the skin microbiome becomes unbalanced there is more harmful bacteria on the skin leading to inflammatory skin issues.

The skin barrier is essential for overall health and needs to be protected for your body to function correctly.

What causes an impaired barrier?

Ø  Incorrect product choices

Ø  Over-cleansing

Ø  Over-exfoliating

Ø  Overuse of Acids such as AHA’s and BHA’s

Ø  Overuse of Retinoids

Ø  Diets low in EFA -Essential Fatty Acids or deficient

Ø  Stress

Ø  Incorrect PH of products

Ø  UV damage

Ø  Age

Ø  Environmental Damage (dry heat / cold/ wind)

Ø  Certain medication

What are the side effects of an impaired barrier?

Ø  Dehydration

Ø  Redness

Ø  Stinging skin

Ø  Itching

Ø  Flaking

Ø  Wrinkles

Ø  Fine lines

Ø  Breakouts

Ø  Blackheads

Ø  Millia

Ø  Excess oil

Ø  Other lesions due to acne, eczema, and dermatitis.

Less is always more, and simplicity is key for skin success!

Tips to repair the barrier function.

Ø  Stop using any washcloths, muslin cloths or sponges to cleanse the skin.

Ø  Always use tepid water, too hot or cold can cause further irritation.

Ø  Use a mild cleanser, one that contains oils to help repair the barrier such as the Hydro Cleanse from Art Derma, harsh cleansers can strip away essential nourishment.

Ø  Do not use any scrubs or exfoliators until the barrier repairs.

Ø  Stop using products with high active ingredients like Acids and retinols.

Ø  Use only the essential products refrain from overloading the skin.

Ø  Use SPF every day as UV rays are one of the main contributing factors to a disrupted barrier function.

Ø  Use products which contain antioxidants.