Skin Benefits of Vitamin C
Skin Benefits of Vitamin C
Vitamin C often hailed above all other ingredients, a must to include into your skin care routine; but why and is it something you need? Jody Taylor reviews vitamin C in this latest blog.
Currently, clinical studies on the efficacy of topical formulations of vitamin C remain limited, and the challenge lies in finding the most stable and permeable formulation to achieve best results for your skin health.
VITAMIN C IS THE MOST ABUNDANT ANTIOXIDANT IN HUMAN SKIN!
Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in the epidermis with lower quantities in the dermal layer so why do we need more?
The skin is a multi-functional organ, and its appearance generally reflects the health of an individual. Its main role is to provide a protective barrier between the external environment and an individual’s tissues. This barrier shields from external aggressors such as UV, dehydration, chemicals, mechanical threats, and pathogens.
As one of the powerful antioxidants in skin along with vitamin E and Glutathione, vitamin C protects against photo damage, UV immunosuppression, pigmentation damage, photo ageing and photo carcinogens. It also plays a significant role in wound healing. Vitamin C protects the skin from UV damage and increases collagen synthesis, gives stability to collagen fibres protecting from degradation. Melanin formation is decreased reducing risk of pigmentation damage and reduces existing pigmentation. Vitamin C replenishes vitamin E to further protect against oxidative damage.
Humans and apes are unable to synthesize vitamin C due to absence of the enzyme L-glucono-gamma lactone oxidase therefore vitamin C must be supplemented orally or topically. Oral supplementation will largely not become available in the skin as it will be used by other organs such as the adrenal and pituitary glands. External topical application of vitamin C to the epidermal layer may have poor penetration as the top visible layer of the skin is hydrophobic (repels water) the efficacy will be dependent on the formulation of the product.
The types of vitamin C found in skincare and choosing the right vitamin C for your skin;
Ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C):
A hydrophilic (attracts water/ water soluble), unstable and a charged molecule which has poor penetration into the epidermal layers of the skin. To achieve permeability and stability of the ascorbic acid molecule the PH -acidity is reduced to below 3.5 in product formulations to allow for epidermal penetration.
Great for anti-ageing benefits and normal skin types. Sensitive skins require ingredients with a higher PH to avoid irritation.
For anti-ageing and pigmentation benefits look for products which have 20% vitamin C content.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate:
A derivative of vitamin C that converts into ascorbic acid once it is applied to the skin. It also does not lose efficiency as easily once exposed to light and air. It is less potent containing only 45%-50% ascorbic acid.
This is a less irritating form perfect for dry and sensitised skins.
Ascorbyl - 6- Palmitate:
A stable and oil soluble form of vitamin C made by combining ascorbic acid with palmitic acid. Ascorbyl Palmitate is used to stabilise other vitamin C ingredients in formulations. Ascorbyl Palmitate has antioxidant benefits but will not improve collagen formation or reduce discolouration’s. Usually found in formulations with oil carriers as it is oil soluble.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate:
A water soluble and stable form of vitamin C, another derivative of ascorbic acid which is mixed with magnesium. It does not degrade in water as easily as L-Ascorbic Acid. It is light and oxygen stable. A great form of vitamin C which will inhibit and suppress melanin formation making it effective in reducing pigmentation damage and boost collagen. A great choice for those who find a higher concentrate of ascorbic acid irritating.
Make a perfect pairing:
Retinoids and Vitamin C
Use vitamin C and Retinoids separately as they have very different PH, and one is oil soluble, and the other is water soluble. Vitamin C use in a morning to protect against free radical damage and retinoids in an evening due to photosensitivity.
Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C
These two ingredients combine well as they complement each other to protect, repair and hydrate the skin. These ingredients can be combined in formulations especially with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or used as individual ingredients.
Remember to use hyaluronic acid after the vitamin C to provide a barrier of protection. Hyaluronic acid air dries therefore to prevent further dehydration apply a moisturiser over the serums.
AHA’S & BHA’S with Vitamin C
As vitamin C can have exfoliating effects on the skin it is best not to use these two ingredients together unless pre formulated and assessed for efficiency and safety.
This combination is best for oily skins with scarring left behind from breakouts.
Vitamin C and Vitamin E
The perfect pair of antioxidants for dry irritated skins. Vitamin C can be unstable on its own and vitamin E helps to balance that irritability. Combined together they pack a punch at preventing oxidative stress and combat ageing.